Måbødalen or maybe Mordor?


The day before, I had beautiful weather, but for today, the forecast wasn’t so kind; fortunately, I could pack all my stuff on a motorcycle without wearing a rain suit, but I knew that it would be the game of cat and mouse. The question was, who will be who? The scenery changed drastically; it was hard for me to believe that yesterday’s fiord, which looked so idyllic now, could be easily the location of some bloody Scandinavian thriller. Just by watching the mountains wrapped in the fog and clouds, I got goosebumps. That’s what you get when you read and watch too many dark stories.

Before heading further, I’ve to visit Skjervsfossenl the road which leads to it is quite a nice one, but what may shock you, I don’t know what’s more interesting the waterfall or… the toilet which is situated at the top of it. You may be thinking, what the hell she is saying? Well, if you want to pee, you can’t be bashful because in the toilet you will find a huge window and glass floor from which you can easily watch the stream. I love Norwegian people’s sense of humor.

Unfortunately, my positive vibes disappear faster than I wished, even though I choose a great, narrow road with small traffic via Ulvik. Just when I entered Hardangervidda, I thought that I have deja vu. Am I back in Mordor on the devilish road in Tongariro National Park in New Zealand, where the wind wanted to throw me from the saddle of my motorcycle!?! The road crosses the biggest high mountain plateau in Northern Europe with its deep, lush valleys and moon landscape (don’t be fool by few shots in the sun it only came out for few minutes). The road snakes across the wide plains to the narrow, steep, untamed valley of Måbødalen. Even the name of that valley sounds like Lord of the Rings.

Here you can listen to Lyfjaberg, a song that escorted us with Bonneville through the sinister steppes of the valley. Even the lyrics fits perfectly:

“Saddle your soul and let it ride
With blind eyes you will surely find the way
Draw your breath in – let thoughts fly away
Let it out slowly – on winds you’ll ride…”


First, it started to rain, I mean rain, rain after half an hour I stop at a wooden bus stop but how long you can stand there like an idiot and wait? I even eat lunch over there, but it still poured.
I looked outside and watched the horizon; it looked like in the direction where I was heading, the sky was getting clear, so I jumped on Bonneville, and yes, it stopped raining, but the strong wind came. I could feel a blast in every bone, rocked by mother nature. But that wasn’t the worst; on that narrow road with thousand long sticks mounted in the ground the worst was when the big truck was driving from the opposite side. I was holding as tight as possible Bonneville because the wind was pushing me to the left and gust made by the truck to the right; I was screaming in my helmet! Oh, and did I mention that it was freezing cold out there?! After 3 hours ride in such conditions, I was tired as hell, cold and mad! Luckily when I got to my camping a lovely, small ‘hytte’ was waiting for me with the traditional grass on the roof. I started to laugh and make a toast for safe travel with the mug of hot tea.




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